Last Christmas, I floated the idea of joining my sister Molly and the Barnes family on Sila for two weeks or so this summer. We identified a one-month window in June and July that would involve some combination of cruising in Scotland and Norway, sandwiched around a passage across the North Sea. Exact timing was a challenge, given the uncertain duration of Sila's passage from South Georgia to Ireland. Once we figured out workable dates, I flew to Inverness, Scotland, then took a ScotRail train through the picturesque Highlands to Kyle of Lochalsh, across from the famous Isle of Skye.
After more than 24 hours of travel, I was thrilled to see Porter and Jack waiting on the platform, and we walked to Sila, docked a few hundred meters away. I disgorged my 'mule' load of Peets coffee, nuts, clothes, books and chocolate. What a joy to be on Sila again for the first time since the Bahamas in March 2014!
Our next stop, Wizard's Pool, was a quiet, remote anchorage on a bold, rocky, heath-covered island. Even in the rain and mist, it was a magical place, with a small rill (stream) spilling into the loch near Sila's bow.
In Loch Maddy, we paid for a mooring in an 'honesty box' on the quay, a common sight in the Hebrides.
Shiant Island, our next anchorage, featured dramatic cliffs right down to the water and the second largest breeding colony of puffins, guillemots and razorbills in Scotland. Before dinner, we rowed ashore and walked to the hill overlooking the anchorage, then chatted with volunteers doing 'bird ringing' (what we would call 'banding') and rat eradication.
At sunrise the following day, Porter and I rowed along the bottom of the cliffs for close-up views of the birds flying, swimming, diving, and landing on the rocks. Puffins breed in holes in the sod, while the others make their nests in rocks. All three species spend the winters living on the ocean.
As we left Shiant Island, Porter and I rowed the dinghy through a cave to meet Sila on the other side, then enjoyed a breathtaking, sunny day along the east coast of the Outer Hebrides. (cave photos)
Our next stop was Stornoway, a modest-sized town with a working harbor on the Isle of Lewis.
Instead of lighting sparklers and prancing along the docks on Independence Day (Do they celebrate the 4th of July in England??), Porter and Jack came up with a different approach. After dinner, they kicked out the adults for thirty minutes. We returned to a scrumptious dessert of strawberry-rhubarb pie, whipped cream and fresh blueberries. Yum!
While waiting for a good weather window for our passage to Norway, we stocked up on food and water, enjoyed hot showers and the local pool, and took in the sights and scenes of Lewis.
We enjoyed several walks on nearby castle grounds to the top of a hill overlooking the harbor and town.
The standing stones at Callanish have been here for millenia, and no one knows why. (photo)
Walking across the sand at Uig, which might be a future 'dry out' anchorage for Sila. (photo)
The weather window opened up and we departed for Norway on Wednesday, hoping to get to the Lofoten Islands on the far northwest coast. On day 3, however, winds died and we changed course to Alesund, arriving at 3 AM on Sunday morning. We were far enough north at this point for sunset at 11 PM and dusk until 1 AM when it started getting light again.
Alesund will play host to the annual Tall Ships regatta starting later in the week, so we could not stay long in the quaint harbor--reminiscent of Venice in the North Sea. (photo of town)
Before departing, we climbed a 418-step staircase up a hill overlooking the downtown, with spectacular views of the harbor and fjords. (photos)
That afternoon, we motor-sailed north through the sunshine, with Colorado-like mountains rising from the fjords on one side and lovely islands on the other. No wonder the Sila crew was so excited to sail in Norway!
The harbor on the north end of Finnoy Island had bikes for visiting boaters. We did a two-hour ride around the island, marveling at the well-kept houses and seeming lack of poverty--the effect of the oil-rich Norwegian economy and generous welfare state.
After a long day of motor sailing along the coast, we arrived at Kristiansund on Tuesday evening. On Wednesday, I took the fast-ferry to Trondheim, overnight train to Oslo and flight back to Boston.
What a joy to spend nearly three weeks on Sila, getting accustomed again to the rhythms and routines of living on a sailboat and getting an up-close sense of this multi-year adventure. Molly and Christopher continue to impress with their sailing and boat-handling prowess, teaching skill, and logistical acumen. I'm amazed at Porter's and Jack's contributions, curiosity and creativity, and their overall positive attitude. Thanks to the entire Sila crew for giving me the chance to spend quality time with family in a new and beautiful place. As my mother used to say, "I don't care where you live as long as it is a nice place to visit!" I totally agree, and I look forward to my next visit with the crew of Sila! -Kevin Peterson, July 16, 2015
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: your comments are public, should be family friendly, and of course concise... and it is often weeks or months until we actaully see and read comments (so we typically do not respond to questions in comments, email us instead)