Far South

This section of Patagonia is, of all the places we have cruised, one of my top three favorites. The other two are the Northern coast of Spain and the Bahamas. Spain was enjoyable because we started engaging with people more. For me, it was almost all the great things from France, like the bread and cheese, in Spanish, a language I was starting to learn. The Bahamas were fantastic because of the daily swimming and snorkeling. There were always fish, coral, and warm water to enjoy.

I have said before that Patagonia is memorable for its views and solitude but I now think that it is also special because it is far from the equator. Its location has many effects that have both up-sides and down-sides. The two biggest are the long days and the climate.

Last night, we watched a movie from eight to ten at night. During the entire movie, it was light outside. The sun was not in the sky but since we are so far south, dusk lasts much longer. At nine at night, we could have comfortably sailed Sila into the harbor, anchored, and set up shorelines- all with plenty of light. This is a great advantage because we can sail for much longer days and cover more distance in the light. In contrast, we sailed shorter distances in the tropics because there are twelve hours of darkness there compared to about six here this time of year.

One problem with the extended daylight, is that I fall asleep when it is still slightly light out. I personally prefer falling asleep in the complete dark, not in the dying light. When I wake up, it is just as bright out as it would be in the middle of the day. The fact that it is almost always overcast makes it harder to differentiate dusk or dawn from midday.

Another noticeable part of being this far south is the climate, which is colder and wetter than most places we have been. Almost everyday, it rains or drizzles for hours. The ocean is also cold so the floor is freezing; cold enough to make me put on slippers for the five pace trip to the bathroom. These obviously sound like drawbacks but there are some benefits.

The benefit of the incessant rain is the amount of water that falls. We have a rain tarp that is twenty square feet, large enough to collect thirty liters of water in six hours of off and on drizzle. We have collected hundreds of liters from constant precipitation. We would have had to go into port or haul water jugs to fill up on more drinking water weeks ago if it was not for the rain. In addition, the rain water tastes great, unlike the water we got in the Bahamas. Another benefit to the cold rain is the relief you get to experience. There is nothing like coming out of the cold rain after a long wet bushwhack to the warm dry interior of the boat and a mug of hot water. Likewise, a few hours of sunshine after a few days of overcast, rainy weather is a treat.

The boat is warm and dry because of the diesel heater, which is awesome. No matter how many times it goes out, fills the boat with smoke, or inspires a flood of swearing out of Daddy's mouth, I still appreciate the warm dry air it generates. Rabbit and I have nicknamed it the smoking swearing stove.

While the long days and the climate are not completely enjoyable, I think that they are both part of what makes being this far south so special. - Porter

Editor's Note: We have been anchored the last couple of days in one of the most beautiful anchorages yet: Caleta Brecknock at 54°32.7'S 71°54.6'W. We were here both to enjoy a fabulous hike up nearby Monte Negro on Friday (a fitting mountain to climb on "Black Friday") and to sit out some weather that included a lot of gusty wind in the channels. We will be going farther south and east in the days and weeks to come before heading north again in a couple of months.