At about fifty knots (58 mph), the surface of the ocean mists by physical force alone and appears to be smoking. It is very pretty to watch and intense to experience in a boat. Since two o'clock this morning, we have had strong williwaws, winds accelerated by nearby land formations, and our anchorage is smoking!
We use a stretchy 10 meter length of 12mm three-strand nylon line on the anchor chain to absorb the boat's movement and soften our connection to the anchor (this line is known as a snubber in sailor's parlance). In the wee hours this morning in a particularly strong gust, ours broke midway down its length. Even weathered and one year old, its breaking strength is a over a thousand kilograms. It is amazing, and a little daunting, to ponder the forces involved.
We had one gust into the high sixties this morning. We are very glad to be tucked into a sheltered corner of a good anchorage because just across the cove, we can see what looks like even more wind. We have a half dozen bearings around the boat to help us identify if we are dragging anchor and during each puff, we eye them carefully. The holding is excellent and we have not moved. So all is well, but anxiety certainly is a tonic for the monotony of days stuck in one anchorage.
Between williwaws, the calm is almost disconcerting. We can just see the winds and seas raging outside the harbor. Except for the williwaws every few minutes, it is calm and mellow in our anchorage. South Georgia is certainly living up to its reputation as being a tumultuous place. The snowy peaks, glacier filled valleys, noisy fur seals, thousands of birds, and storied history certainly make it all worthwhile. - Christopher
wow, i can palpably feel your anxiety as i imagine the wind whipping down the hills and onto Sila during midnight anchor watch. Amazing to hear that you broke a snubber--yipes. But i'm guessing it's worth it to see and experience the beauty and grandeur of S. Georgia.
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